sainted yogurt, salted chard
When yogurt crosses over to the savory side—not merely tangy or as a counterpoint to sweet, interesting things happen. Yesterday afternoon, I stirred a little tahini and a few cloves of minced garlic into Saint Benoît Yogurt (sometimes I crisp chickpeas with cumin and sprinkle them on top when I make this) and spooned it over rainbow chard, drizzling hot oil over the yogurt in a circuitous path.
Looking at the chard pieces that shine like jewels when sautéed, I laughed at precious food labels and had a bit of fun, making the shape of a cross with boquerones as the yogurt sauce spread over the chard like a halo. This yogurt’s consistency differs depending on the season, slightly thinner in the summer months when the ladies drink more water in Sonoma County.
I thought of my friend Holly (you should read her book), who never takes herself too seriously as she covers weighty topics in food politics (she was, at one time, an AP journalist) and creates beautiful, healthy food that she writes about with humor and grace.
My favorite part of this recipe (and the part I think Holly will especially appreciate) is massaging the chard leaves with salt (dice and sauté the chard stems, with carrots if you like, during the leaf massage), feeling the leaves’ bouncy greenness; after a few minutes, rinse off the salt and squeeze out excess water before wilting the leaves in the medium-high pan, where they retain their color. Meanwhile, warm pitas or naan to dip in this meze (lavash is the more correct bread here, but I find naan easier to make or locate).
Though I rarely see Holly to eat together in person, I always feel my kitchen is connected to hers, even as we both travel and cook in new places—
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Posted by Kristen Taylor on Wednesday, June 9th, 2010, 12:57 pm * Filed in Food, light, Tribute. * Tags: chard, hollyhickman, kristen, kthread, taylor, yogurt. Follow responses through the RSS 2.0 feed. Leave a response, or trackback from your own site.
June 9th, 2010 at 1:35 pm
I just had to check what “boquerones” are. I have never heard of them before! (Not that this is surprising. I just learned about brisling a few months ago. Apparently, my knowledge of salted fish is lacking.)
I like that in the yogurt jar photo, you can see a little hint of whey at the top. Since I have started making my own yogurt, I often feel that my final product is inadequate in comparison to the consistent smoothness of grocery store yogurt. And then I remember that my yogurt, though sometimes a little burned, isn’t evil…
June 10th, 2010 at 3:24 pm
Boquerones are really wonderful, Mica–white anchovies cured in vinegar and then packed in oil (for imported products)—I love that you make yogurt; being homemade, it is inherently superior to anything in a grocery store and the separation is often a selling point in local products here—
June 11th, 2010 at 12:54 pm
This made me smile so widely I almost burst! Thank you for the lovely and unexpected shout-out. I miss you and wish we could spend some excellent time together, mulling and musing and laughing. (And eating!) Much love…You are such a light and inspiration.
June 13th, 2010 at 11:03 am
As are you, Holly; I think I’ll be passing through your new hood in August, so hope we can catch up then, all my best—
June 16th, 2010 at 5:22 pm
I love to follow your links to other food places and I love to read about (and see the photos of) your lovely creations…Off to read more about Holly!