Archive for the "Entertaining" Category

the mighty cone, solar pumps, and a shiny knife in austin

Austin might be at its loveliest in the spring, when musicians and technologists seize upon the gracious town for SxSW.

Bradford pear tree in Austin

Sunny days helped visitors recharge their devices at solar pump stations (from local Beth Ferguson and the Sol Design Lab),

solar pumps

solar pumps

almost as delightful to find as the vintage on South Congress (my friend Laura in a bold jacket at Flashback Vintage).

Laura in her vintage find

We discovered all kinds of food vendors in a lot where there was once only an Airstream with a rotating cupcake, including the new Cutie Pies Wagon, where the window was wreathed in maribou, and we celebrated Pi Day on Sunday with a buttermilk pie.

a buttermilk pie (from Cutie Pies trailer) for Pi Day

Local favorite Hudson’s on the Bend has a spot nearby to sell their “mighty cones,”

Hudson's trailer "Eat More Cones"

and their avocado cone was just as good as the ones they sell at the Austin City Limits festival in the fall (and the chile dusting the fries and spiking the ketchup were further reminders why the restaurant is beloved here).

chile-dusted fries, house ketchup, avocado cone from Hudson's

Sunday night, I happened into the underground dinner theater of serious Brooklyn food maestro Michael Cirino of A Razor, A Shiny Knife (you’ll see Brooklyn author (The Art of Eating In) and blogger Cathy Erway cooking in the kitchen too).

It’s all in the details—the ash Michael created for the goat cheese in the salad,

greens with radishes, carrot strips, goat cheese with vegetable ash Michael created

the orange juice that cooked the carrots,

carrots and fruit and mushrooms

the wit of Jay Parkinson (at left, he wrote a wonderful blog post about the night) and the thoughtfulness of Robert Fabricant (at right) and a whole group of strangers meeting for the first time to eat and cook together,

Jay (at left) and Robert (at right) in conversation

the splendid shavings of truffle over silky puree that you had to close your eyes to taste (there was a beautiful course with brussel sprouts and grapes before this),

puree with meat and truffle

and if you ask for extra fat you shall receive it from Michael,

ask for extra fat, and Michael will give you that

before he presents a peppered granita,

granita with pepper

kitchen torches appear,

caramelizing the creme brulee

and mignardises dazzle: sparkly bourbon spheres and strips like fruit leather,

bourbon balls and fruit leather

bourbon gelée.

bourbon cubes (Michael is holding these)

I snuck another bourbon ball from the kitchen that had produced so much molecular gastronomy that night (truly, the power of underground dinners is that the magic is mobile, powered by the creative force of the cooks, and for all its whim, the experience is a circular and shaped one),

bourbon balls

and, meeting up with Christina downtown, and with new friends that produce local Hill Country wine and have a pet rooster, off we went into the starry Austin night…

the band pose (someone's got to wear the metallic belt)

flatirons, palm sugar, kumquats in cauliflower

This morning, the sun shone on the tulips Maia brought over last night,

tulips from Maia

part of a beautiful weekend of friends that closed with dinner in my kitchen for my friends Maia (who lives in Amsterdam now) and Karen, both inspiring designers in their work and lives.

I roasted fractal cauliflower with turmeric, stirred in shallot rings and kumquats (F&W recipe),

roasted cauliflower with turmeric, shallot rings, and kumquat

sautéed apples, wilted spinach, toasted pine nuts, and macerated raisins,

spinach with pine nuts, Braeburn apples, and raisins

listened to these two wise women (who will, I hope, forgive me for posting a picture that doesn’t do them justice),

Karen and Maia

and passed plates for red quinoa, pork tenderloin with fennel mustard, and roasted root vegetables (parsnip, sweet potato, purple carrots, onions) with goat ricotta salata.

red quinoa, roasted pork tenderloin, fennel mustard, cauliflower, roasted root veg with goat ricotta salata

It was a weekend of sparkle, from Karen and Maia to two banana cakes (one with walnuts, one without) from my new friend Dan of Renegade Kitchen,

one with walnuts, one without (both sparkle, like Dan)

that he made with palm sugar (he’s as thoughtful as that choice of sweetener) for my good friend Andrew’s birthday party on Saturday night.

Dan the Renegade Kitchen Man

Andrew (at left) invited friends over to help celebrate (note the unicorn piñata on the table from his friend Elaine), and the apartment filled with technologists, entrepreneurs, and people who love Boulder as much as he does.

the party underway (note the unicorn pinata)

For those who arrived early, Andrew chopped shrimp to place inside the avocado that I made a shallot dressing to top,

avocado with shrimp and shallot dressing

then there was pork with tart tomatillos for tacos,

pork taco at Andrew's birthday party

along with chicken Andrew marinated with mangoes and habarenos,

Andrew's mango-habanero chicken

that guests carefully assembled on warmed blue corn tortillas.

tacos with mango-habanero chicken

Earlier that afternoon, before the bonfire, the cutting of the cakes, my efforts to play a purple kazoo from the belly of the unicorn piñata (and an abbreviated road trip to Nederland, Colorado for Frozen Dead Guy Days), some of us hiked up to watch the sun set,

where we climbed

and I looked at the rock formations,

Boulder, Colorado

knowing that just as clearly as the stars appear in Boulder, spring will clear new paths…

Boulder, Colorado

a dinner party built for ten

Earlier last week, the snow began, coating the tree outside my windows and, the next day, melting in time for a dinner party while my lovely friends Catherine and Keryn were in town, a great excuse to gather everyone on Saturday night and cook.

snowy brooklyn

And after trips to the market (and to the crowded foodgeek event Foodprint City NYC), Catherine, Solana, and Keryn began making gnocchi,

Catherine, Solana, and Keryn making gnocchi

turning baked sweet potatoes from this,

sweet potato gnocchi dough

into these (aren’t they beautiful? It’s this Gourmet recipe.)

the beautiful sweet potato gnocchi

More guests arrived, Eva with her arms full of tulips,

and then there were six

and Solana and I cooked the soft gnocchi, crisping them a bit in a pan with butter and grating Parmesan on top before passing small plates to share.

the sweet potato gnocchi with Parmesan in a butter sauce

Candy-hued chairs from the Brooklyn Flea, pulled around the little table that could, held friends that passed roasted brussel sprouts (Keryn’s handiwork) and fractal cauliflower, savory leek bread pudding, then Ad Hoc’s garlic-brined pork tenderloin with fennel mustard—and the smashed potatoes I almost forgot in the oven.

It was a second Thanksgiving, really, one to send winter off with warm food in bowls for seconds and thirds. I think I am happiest when my kitchen is crowded, full of loud laughter, and, ah,

and then we were ten

flashed hand signals (Revaz to a skeptical Noah),

Revaz flashing hand signs at a skeptical Noah

ice inspectors like Mario (these are space invaders),

Mario and the space invader ice cube

and salted butterscotch pudding appreciators like Keryn and Liza.

Keryn and Liza like the pudding

salted butterscotch pudding with whipped cream and chocolate curls

The energy filled the kitchen and then moved out into the night, toward a dance club and more laughing—I hope Catherine will make return visits, to see Keryn more often (I’m going to Maine in April), that these friends will circle my table again and again, and that Brooklyn continues to amaze…

and it was too much for the flash

braising brussels and a tulsa night

This morning, I pulled a chair into the sun streaming through the kitchen windows, tearing apart the layers of a warmed croissant from Balthazar. Equally comforting, tonight, I made Orangette’s cream-braised brussel sprouts,

cream-braised brussel sprouts

These taste a bit like braised artichoke hearts without the bother of peeling baby artichokes, and the soft brussel sprouts fall into layers like that croissant, napped in cream, an excellent side for those of you (Rosie and Faris) into the British tradition of Sunday roasts and new ways to cook sprouts. I like mine colorful, but the original recipe will lead you to paler brussel quarters.

Sprouts are a different sort of traditional fare than last night’s costumed outing for a Tulsa theme party—Solana and Eva acquiesced to another caliber of beer and embraced neon jewelry and denim,

Solana (with new bangs) and Eva the princess

and I pulled out the white leather for an event that screened “Rumblefish” and lasted until three in the morning, featured a wonderful venison chili, and was the sort of occasion appropriate for this record I found at yesterday’s Brooklyn Flea.

"country and hillbilly" by Capitol Records

Who knows what the weekend adventures will mean for the week ahead…

be your own Italian grandmother

In my continuing efforts to create bright and shining foods, I have a new ally: candied kumquats.

candied kumquats

Slice the small citrus and simmer them in a simple syrup (ratio of 1 sugar: 2 water) for ten minutes or so (the kumquats will flavor the syrup, making a nice cocktail ingredient) and you will have softened the fruits into sweet, flexible discs.

Like the kumquats, the air was sparkling as I walked back from yoga last night, and I woke to inches of snow outside my window.

I have the enviable task this morning of deciding which leftovers to heat gently from a dinner on Monday night with my friends Jean Marc and Danny, who were visiting from Miami, and my friend Solana, who has returned from a trip to Germany.

Jean Marc, Danny, and Solana

I met Jean Marc and Danny at a Slow Food Miami event last year, and I knew immediately we would be friends beyond the love we share of thoughtful food.

Knowing their culinary tour of New York included many stylish Manhattan restaurants, I decided to make what an Italian grandmother living in Brooklyn might, simmering sauce for hours until it cooked into a pork sugo that I baked with orecchiette.

pork sugo with baked orechiette and Parm

I’ll reduce the wine less next for more liquid in the sauce as I make the sugo my own, although the dish still won’t photograph well—it’s about the beautiful moment where you close your eyes and really taste the pork shoulder and oregano and carrots.

For the next course, inspired by a raw salad at the recent Underground Food Collective dinner, I cut fractal cauliflower and peeled purple haze carrots, tossing the colors with oil, then a gremolata to wake the cauliflower.

fractal cauliflower and purple haze carrots and gremolata

We finished the Barbera d’Alba and opened a Vin Santo to toast to Danny’s birthday on Tuesday, and the candied kumquats adorned a torta della nonna (grandmother’s tart) with a ricotta filling and pine nuts and Fior de Latte gelato from Brooklyn Larder.

candied kumquat on torta della nonna and fior de latte gelato

I rarely have dinner guests on Monday, so having Jean Marc and Danny over was an especially nice way to begin the week. Letting the dishes soak, I felt like an Italian grandmother as I cut another slice of tart late that night and peered at the kumquat rinds with beautifully large pores from the candying.

candied kumquats (look at the spots)

This past weekend, I also leaned in to see the detail on the membrane of flounder roe I found at the Grand Army Plaza greenmarket from Seatuck Fish (I bought skate from them the weekend before).

flounder roe

Crispy and with a scallion sauce, the pieces of roe started a mysterious night of revelations over drinks with Liza and then an underground party, where I wore a vintage Jonathan Logan and antique earrings that belonged to my grandmother.

January 30, 2010
See more of my dresses on The Serendipity of Boise blog.

The crab salad appeared again during the weekend, with pea shoots,

more of that beautiful crab and breadcrumb salad

and on Sunday night, Solana came over before I candied the kumquats, in the middle of the sugo, and we made what I am craving again this morning: cooked ramen noodles with sliced pork, shiitakes, a poached egg, a Momofuku mother sauce of ginger and scallions

(2.5 c sliced scallions, 1/2 c minced ginger, 1/4 c neutral oil, 1 1/2 tsp usukuchi or other soy sauce, 3/4 tsp sherry vinegar, 3/4 tsp salt—let it sit for 20 minutes),

and quick homemade pickles (very thinly slice 2 Kirby cucumbers and coat with 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp salt—let sit for ten minutes).

noodles and egg and pickles and pork

Without noodles, I have instead a delightful dilemma of how to allay the chill of the morning: savory slow-cooked pork? Cake and kumquats? Or, as I glance up at the window,

snow on the Brooklyn fire escape

gather snow from the steps of the fire escape,

begin with a bowl of snow

pour a little milk, cream, vanilla, and kumquat syrup over (try maple syrup, honey, or agave nectar instead of sugar),

pour over milk, cream, a sweetener (I like honey or syrup)

and stir: snow ice cream, the resolution in an embrace of this icy day…

stir into snow ice cream