Archive for the "Food" Category

2011: the best of a lesser year

As my friend Fil put it yesterday, 2011 had such great heights. And all of the valleys that accompany the peaks. These were my favorite moments of the year, in chronological order:

The year started beautifully in Miami, on hammocks.

February brought a circle of friends to begin the New Year of the Rabbit with Chinese tea eggs, boiled soft, then steeped in tea to reveal, upon cracking, marbleized interiors.

tea eggs

Just after my March birthday, K and I flew from chilly New York to Barcelona,

first meal in Barcelona, a little place near La Boqueria

the city of Gaudi architecture, and this strange and wonderful cathedral, eternally being built.

Sagrada Familia

Sagrada Famila

My year was to look like this roof on the Santa Caterina Market,

Santa Caterina Market (and the wavy roof)

but I didn’t know that yet.

me in Barcelona

We were then to Cannes, with its crêpes and cider, and my first time with Margalet cheese from the Ceneri cheese shop,

in Cannes

and to the famed La Colombe D’Or.

the village around La Colombe D'Or

In the late spring, I joined the designer coworking space Studiomates and dressed all in purple for our Rainbow Parade.Image by Erin Sparling.

http://erinsparling.com/

May was also my first crawfish boil, part of a road trip that included an amazing family in Madison, Mississippi, who boiled 335 pounds of crawfish.

crawfish

I was overwhelmed with the abundance of food and the hospitality. To eat a crawfish correctly, you pinch the head and then, well, they chalked instructions for those of us shyer in handling crustaceans.

chalk instructions next to one of the dogs

The weekend helped me remember my steel magnolia roots as I headed back to Atlanta to visit my mother.

magnolia

June was my sister Kassandra’s wedding,

Mom pinning the veil in

and this image taken by my sister Kat sums up my role as co-Maid of Honor, chasing down rogue antebellum sunshades in front of a historic plantation. I wrote a Fast Company piece about our use of tech during the wedding week.

this is my favorite wedding image of me (I'm chasing down skittering antebellum umbrellas)

But then, all the bridesmaids took our role seriously.


Image by Courtney Rosen.

Late June, K and I traveled to Amsterdam and spent time with wonderful friends Matt and Maia, piloting their boat through afternoon thunderstorms to discover bitterballen,

bitterballen in Amsterdam (these are served with mustard)

seeking out herring in season (Hollandse Nieuwe) at special stands, and spending time in our friend Gary’s magnificent kitchen.

herring in Amsterdam (Hollandse Nieuwe)

We took a day trip to Cologne, with its cathedral and love locks.

Cologne (koln) Cathedral

locks on the gate behind the cathedral in Cologne, Germany

From there: London in early July, with so many friends we forgot to take pictures. I remembered to bring the camera for a weekend in a 13th Century country house my dear friend Will engaged for a long weekend.

Gurney Manor

Shockingly, we spent the time eating the region’s renowned clotted cream,

it's very much about the clotted cream

preparing elaborate meals we took to eating outside,

we begin

and touring walled gardens.

walled gardens of Cannington in Bridgwater

walled gardens of Cannington

I told an Ignite NYC audience why quitting a Ph.D. is the best possible option for some:

In early August, friends from graduate school Andrew and Annie announced they would be married in a week, and I filled the gas tank to drive to Chapel Hill, North Carolina and record the celebration. You see how they do things their own way, with great success. The bride wore blue.

DSC_1609

doubleAwedding9

And continuing my drive back up the coast, my friend Keryn let me pretend I lived in Maine for a week or so, opening her house and barn, as she always does. There were ferries and sunflowers and islands to see before returning to New York to teach my graduate class at ITP.

maine1

DSC_1785

maine6

The fall brought considerable moments of quiet, struggles for professional growth as my consulting expanded, and the launch of my food magazine, Saucy.

In November, my sister Kat and I arrived in a former convent in Oaxaca, timing our trip to catch the end of the Day of the Dead celebrations, marvel at the Placido Domingo, puzzle over hand-drawn maps while bartenders poured local mezcal. We relaxed into chilaquiles and chocolate oaxacaquena con leche, then Baja fish tacos in Puerto Escondito. I will not forget the street vendor who drew a Sunday night crowd, pressing squash blossoms into tortillas she rolled out and grilled with Oaxacan string cheese. We traveled to visit my friend David in Mexico City and the Templo Mayor, the center of the Aztec universe. And Kat shared a Portland recipe, filling morels from the mushroom vendor at a local market.

Returning refreshed to NY, I shared my story about delivering bread in the early mornings of last winter, opening the TEDxEast November salon.

K and I began December in the tropical rainforest of Saba, a small Caribbean island with the shortest airport runway in the world. It was a perfect, and perfectly beautiful vacation.

Saba rainforest

Saba rainforest

Here’s to a spectacular 2012!

meanwhile, back at the manor

Matt and Maia draining out the excess water in their boat

Two of my favorite people live in Amsterdam, and a few weekends ago, Maia and Matt were draining the rainwater from their boat together.

The sun broke through the clouds like a champion on that Saturday morning, and we were off into the waterways as they traded driving duties.

I discovered how cars cease to exist from the purview of the canals,

DSC_0790

and then the two introduced me to bitterballen, the traditional crunchy bar snack of Béchamel and diced meat crumbed and fried that arrive with mustard.

bitterballen in Amsterdam (these are served with mustard)

For dinner, we shelled purple hulls for the green peas to stir into scallion sauce on soba noodles under roasted chicken thighs marinated in soy sauce and watched the night lights luminate the canal bridge tunnels.

Kevin arrived a few days later, and we took the train to Cologne, stepping off the platform, through the station, and out into the sun, blinking at the beautiful cathedral.

Cologne (koln) Cathedral

The controversial stained glass inside by Gerhard Richter is startling in real life, as you stand and look up beside octogenarians who have pushed their glasses on top of their heads. You realize you are seeing the same thing they are.

the controversial window from Gerhard Richter at Cologne (Koln) Cathedral

After a proper night of pork plates and Kölsch served in the correct glassware, I went wandering through the rain the following morning, pausing at the women practicing aerial swordfighting on a wall (likely this is an exercise craze that will import to Brooklyn nicely),

practicing choreographed fighting on a wall in Cologne, Germany

and strolled the nearby bridge to read the sets of initials on love locks, fastened onto the gate by couples who then throw away the key together in the Rhine below.

locks on the gate in Cologne, Germany

purple heart lock on gate

Back in Amsterdam, we sought out herring (also broodje haring, which is the name for a herring sandwich and always on good brown bread), for the annual celebration of Hollandse Nieuwe. The Dutch favor picking it up by the tail and serve it with raw onions and pickles.

herring in Amsterdam (Hollandse Nieuwe)

My favorite Dutch food is Boterkoek, a type of shortbread, and Kuyt Patisserie makes a perfect version. If you’ve ever made a cake-cookie, this is a shortbread cake-cookie with a chewy center and crispy edges. (I’m working on a recipe for the next Saucy mag issue.)

Boterkoek (Dutch shortbread) from Kuyt patisserie is really special

While front rooms from the 1700s look out over the canals, as Matt and Maia’s stunning apartment does (they were kind enough to let us stay as they traveled for work), rooms on the other side of buildings look out on private gardens,

the garden view from our room in Amsterdam

and Kevin and I talked about the difference of views as we walked to local “brown cafes” that were appropriately “cozy” – the highest accolade in this city culture.

We were also upsold potatoes at restaurants with our friend Matt, and we marvelled at our friend Gary’s colorful rooms when we were invited over for a beautiful long dinner (and I’m cooking in his enormous kitchen next time we visit).

After a week or so in Amsterdam, we hopped a train to Brussels and took the chunnel to London, and I spent so much time riding around on the top of double-decker buses while exploring and then posing as an East Londoner (modeling my behavior after my good friend James, who lives in Stoke Newington and was a perfect host), that I rarely took pictures other than with my phone.

I will admit to a new and abiding fondness for eggs, sausage, chips, and beans at breakfast and that I continued to order black pudding everywhere we went. (More on my favorite food in London in the next Saucy.)

A few days into our London stay, I took a local train to the country to visit my friend Will, who had secured a manor house from the thirteenth century in Somerset for the weekend.

view from the dining room windows as the sun set

Will has a habit of gathering friends to country houses all over the world, so I wasn’t too surprised to be soon drinking Rosé and walking the grounds as Rachel helped him collect wood for the inspiring fireplaces.

Will and Rachel go collect wood

After exploring the manor (I chose one of the secret rooms), we tucked into a lovely dinner planned and prepared by Sherrilynn and Matt in the substantial restored kitchen.

Gurney Manor

Two roosters battled for dominance outside my window in the morning while everyone slept in, and I crept out to the garden gate,

gate out of the garden

by the water

afternoon clouds in the creek

finding a machine in the garden,

machine in the garden

before returning to the manor lawn to find Sherrilynn under a tree, as joyful as I always am to see the leaves filter morning light.

light through the leaves

We all pitched in to make a “slap-up” breakfast (another new adjective!) of eggs with crème fraiche, beans, streakey bacon, leek sausage, and crumpet with clotted cream and strawberry jam to ease into the day.

slap-up breakfast (eggs with creme fraiche, Heinz beans, streakey bacon, leek sausage, crumpet with clotted cream and strawberry jam

After baths (more of those than showers in the manor), we split into expedition parties and set our sights on the Walled Gardens of nearby Cannington, where the nuns and monks are rumored to have met in underground tunnels in centuries past,

walled gardens of Cannington

gardens in town

walled gardens of Cannington in Bridgwater

walled gardens of Cannington

and the gardens now are curated by those who delight in strange succulent varieties.

succulent at walled gardens of Cannington

succulents

walled gardens of Cannington

walled gardens of Cannington

exploring

Driving further into town, we were underwhelmed by Scrumpy at a nearby cidery, but we nonetheless took full advantage of their local dairy specialty, as you can tell from Will staring longingly at not the scone,

Will looking at the scones

but the generous ramekin of clotted cream that the area is known for.

it's very much about the clotted cream

Back at the manor, we greeted the sheep,

sheep at Gurney Manor

Gurney Manor

and I followed Sherrilynn down the little path toward town (you can see Darrell on the returning end of his run),

walking into town with Sherrilynn

to go past the pubs to the medieval church and its gargoyles,

church in Bridgwater

finding the way back past the blackberry brambles and honeysuckle vines.

honeysuckle and blackberries in Bridgwater

Rachel was smiling as Matt and Sherrilynn started dinner,

prepping for dinner

to the accompaniment of a delightful musical group that had produced an entire album of songs about cider.

amazing album we bought at Rick's Cider

Will worked his pie crust into the pan to bake it blind,

Will hard at work on his beautiful pie crust

and I left the kitchen to join Will and Darrell in the garden,

dinner prep

setting up the table in the setting sun.

aligning the table

Sherrilynn and Matt

Sauteed mushrooms over chevre on bread with a port sauce paired very well with the company and the conversation (with Darrell sneaking raspberries into your wine at opportune intervals),

beautiful bread with sauteed mushrooms over chevre that Matt made

we begin

punctuated by corks flying into the air and laughter.

the cork flies through the air

Later, the talented Sherrilynn and Matt would pull their banjos out and fill the old house with music and song, and I would relax deeper into a couch beside a fire that roared, feeling lucky indeed to have such good friends with such good friends that remain dear no matter where we live as the summers come and go…

baked the shell blind, let it cool in the sill

in hot pursuit of mud bugs

Biscuit with blackberry jam at the Loveless Cafe in Nashville

This story begins with biscuits and blackberry jam, and then eggs and bacon and sausage and hash brown casserole,

eggs, bacon, gravy, sausage, and hash brown casserole at the Loveless Cafe in Nashville, Tennessee

all at the Loveless Cafe, which I cannot recommend unless you are with a friend so wonderful it almost doesn’t matter where you go on a food road trip.

Loveless Cafe sign in Nashville, Tennesee

In the drizzling rain, I drove from seeing old friends Michaela, Stewart, and Michael who live in Nashville to Jackson, Mississippi, where I picked my friend Laura up from the train station, and we drove off the mapped roads onto a gravel one,

the gravel road driveway

that led us to dogs, and an annual family reunion that we secured an invite to, showing up just in time for fiery conch salad from the Bahamas (the most wonderful people from the Bahamas bring it to the event every year), and a little later, a pig that had been roasting for 48 hours.

Dogs to greet us at the Crawfish Boil

For this occasion, many of the extended family sleep in little tent rows dotting the back yard of the five-acre propery,

row of tents

lined with magnolias and near a grove of two hundred acres of uncut forest.

magnolia

The next morning began my first Crawfish Boil, and a stunning sequence of food throughout the day started with biscuits and savory country ham that is colloquially spread with jam.

day begins with biscuits and ham and sausage (the ham is never sweet)

Out back, everyone was looking into three kiddie pools,

Checking on the crawfish

where 335 pounds of crawfish were doing the wave as they danced and were watered into the afternoon.

spraying the crawfish

Our friend Yann’s dad Alan wielded the Cajun Crawfish Paddle with skill, letting the initial boil brew simmer and reduce,

adding salt to one, the Cajun Crawfish Paddle in the other pot

as the guys shucked ears of corn ready for the enormous pots.

shucking corn for the pots

shucked corn

There was time for playful crawfish racing,

FEAR ME

to admire Laura’s new battle scar from an old bike injury surgery,

Laura showing off a battle wound (not from the crawfish)

and in a flush of excitement, everyone followed the first batch of crawfish onto the table earlier than usual,

Pouring the first batch on the table

where they were covered with newspaper and allowed to steam and rest briefly.

all covered with newspaper (to rest)

Yann’s brother Ky taught me the correct technique for eating them: loosen the tail, pull it off, push the meat up, dip it in Tony’s (saltier) or Old Bay (less salty) and then – “Don’t cheat,” he admonished – crush and suck the head juices.

crawfish boil (marking your cup with an X)

It is incredible experience, as everyone is drawn to the table, eating their fill and laughing and wandering away, only to return for a later batch.

around the table

Pictures were taken on all kinds of cameras,

crawfish boil

and bubbles filled the long driveway,

bubbles

stories were told around the fire,

around the fire

and our friend Yann was one of the last at the table, as the Captain of Team Peel (completely peeling the remainder of the crawfish to bag and use later as opposed to my team of tail poppers, also known as Team Progress).

Thanks, Yann, for letting me be an honorary member of your amazing extended family. And thanks to Laura for getting me into yet another adventure.

Yann (Captain of Team Peel)

The music started as the crawfish were sealed into containers and continued into the night, with spoons and drums,

and an accomplished singer-songwriter serenading everyone crowded into the kitchen in a moment too perfect to record.

I realize it was my first, but damn, are Yann’s parents Sandi and Alan ever the lovely hosts, and my, but is a boil a perfect way to bring family together to stand beside each other at a table…

More photos from the crawfish boil will appear in the summer issue of Saucy Mag, my new food magazine. Find the spring issue here.

magic squares

beautiful, colorful Barcelona

I have spent the spring impatiently waiting for warm weather in New York, hopping a flight in late March to wander sunny Barcelona streets,

park in Barcelona

and its long stretches of parks, and the elaborately encrusted Sagrada Familia,

Sagrada Familia

with its Gaudí figures and ornamentation,

Sagrada Familia

including a Magic Square on the outside of the unfinished basílica.

a magic square at Sagrada Familia

The inspiring inside is filled with light from the stained glass playing off itself and the organic columns, and ushers in a curious sort of local and tourist reverence.

Sagrada Familia

In nearby neighborhoods, there are plazas also filled with light and the sounds of guitarists practicing before standing just outside restaurant patios,

quiet courtyard

and in April, chocolate shops filled with Easter houses (characters sold separately).

characters sold separately

Visiting for a few days, I started a wonderful habit of Cava and Jamón ibérico from the nearby La Boqueria on our roof deck, reading into the late afternoon before meeting friends for very fresh fish and crispy Pan can Tomate.

cava and jamon iberico on the porch in barcelona

From Barcelona, we went to Cannes, where I discovered Margalet, a cheese much like Camembert, at the fabulous Ceneri – the sort of cheese shop you feel you cannot make a mistake in, the selection is curated so thoughtfully.

Margalet (like Camembert)

A perfectly ripened cheese makes for such quiet happiness.

While in Cannes, we were part of a small but determined expedition to the famed Colombe D’Or, the restaurant with early art from those later collected by museums. The trip there and back was just as entertaining (hairpin turns!) as the witty conversation at the table, and we were the last to leave the dining room and walk back through the picturesque town.

somewhere in the town by Colombe D'Or

And a few weeks ago, back stateside, we celebrated a family birthday on the charming boyfriend’s side in New Orleans, that city where the trees grow beads in season,

the trees grow beads in the Garden District

and where it is possible to source a glittery birthday cake on short notice.

Glittery birthday cake for Rod in New Orleans (thanks, Sucre!)

Near our hotel in the Warehouse District, I walked to Cochon for an Abita and a glance at the menu, watching as the heat melted the butter for the rolls,

biscuits and butter and Abita at Cochon

and unable to resist, I ordered their Cochon de Lait that arrived on top of braised cabbage and with a cracklin’, a good omen for a snappy city I try to wander through on my travels as often as possible…

cracklin on top of cochon and braised cabbage at Cochon

More pictures and stories from these trips in the next issue out this summer of a food magazine I’ve started called Saucy. You can buy the first issue (it used to be called Culinaesthete) on Magcloud in print or digital formats. Your support of the magazine so far (hello, new Australian friends!) means the world to me.

the art of gournet cooking

I know what you’re thinking.

["She misspelled the title of this post. Should I tell her?"]

best for gournet cooking effect

I meant to put ‘gournet’ in the title–and not because this post concerns the fish of the family Triglidae (though there are fish. Shiny ones.)

A few weeks ago, my friend Dan and I galloped off to Chinatown to see his noodle dealer. I can’t show you the noodle dealer, of course, but perhaps you can ferret out the location with the background clues.

Dan with many noodles

We bought five packets of beautiful, fresh noodles.

five packs of noodles from Dan's noodle dealer

Then, a new vegetable enthusiast friend (who sets up shop on the street) gleefully packed mounds of long Chinese greens and baby bok choy for us in lucky red bags, throwing in extra handfuls for good measure–so many that the bags weighed us down as we made our way toward the fish.

baby bok choy (an abundance of them)

I like shiny things. So unsurprisingly, the fish that caught my eye were pink and shimmery.

our beautiful sparkly pink fish

Scaled and gutted, the pink fish still sparkled in my kitchen a few hours later;

scaled and gutted, our fish are ready to be crusted with salt

while Dan stirred his wonderful black bean sauce into the noodles, and we sautéed the greens, I whipped egg whites and salt to create a crust that baked around the fish.

salt-crusted fish (you flake it off)

By then, our guests had started to arrive: Dan’s sister, who lives in the neighborhood, and then my friends LJ, Sarah, Tricia, David (who lives in Mexico City), Mario, Revaz, and Dean.

such a nice group in the apt (and the party grew)

Dan, who is a gluten-free chef, made sizzling parsnip cakes with Chinese sausage as everyone shed coats and boots, and we began to celebrate The Year of the Rabbit together.

Looking at our birth years on the Chinese calendar, we read the Engrish predictions for our year ahead as I portioned out pieces of the whole fish.

In years past, my favorite part of Chinese New Year parties has been making fortune cookies with my friend Mica, but this year I decided to finally make tea eggs.

tea eggs

Boiled hard, the eggshells are cracked and the eggs simmered with 5-spice powder and tea bags, then cure for up to a few days, chilled.

Just after the eggs were Dan’s lovely individual chocolate cakes (recipe), Tricia’s pistachio macarons from Michael Allen, and raucous revelry, but before that, the kitchen went silent for a few minutes, as we unpeeled the marbled eggs and considered the possibilities in the months ahead…

tea egg unpeeled