Archive for the "garden" Category

an island beach in maine

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The road to Maine started in Atlanta, with my sister Kassandra and her husband Sean’s garden spilling over the fence, as the spinach grew thickly near the peppers and watermelons behind their new house.

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I drove down to Atlanta after Annie and Andrew’s wedding, and then back up to New York the following day, pulling off the road for this eatery’s encouraging sign:

Y'all Come Eat sign on my road trip through VA and W VA

And then it was off to Maine, and to an island, passing the Coast Guard,

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as well as bobbing boats in the harbor as I chatted with Keryn about ferries in the afternoon sun.

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Keryn’s friends keep chickens, they couldn’t say exactly how many,

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near beautiful male goats that perk up their ears in unison and wander toward you, bells swinging.

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On Saturday afternoon, we gathered with their friends on an island beach,

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and I learned how to pour coals into the rocks and set the grill cover over, and patiently wait.

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As usual, it’s the guys hanging around the grill.

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More friends joined us as the sun began to drop…

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and there were crazy discoveries to be made in tidal pools (“Look, Mom!”)

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and friendships renewed.

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My friend Keryn sat serenely as the children ran about, with her usual calm that belies spontaneous dance moves that occur with some regularity while in her orbit.

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I had a hard time leaving the beach, watching as we heaped the grill with seaweed, and looking back over my shoulder again at the sunset on the quiet beach.

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At the farm Keryn’s friends caretake for, the sunflowers are at their height,

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the garlic is drying,

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and they sent us back with piles of springy rainbow chard, cucumbers, and tomatoes,

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that made beautiful cucumber sandwiches and colorful couscous across the water, back on the Maine mainland, this dreamy area of the country I love to visit…

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meanwhile, back at the manor

Matt and Maia draining out the excess water in their boat

Two of my favorite people live in Amsterdam, and a few weekends ago, Maia and Matt were draining the rainwater from their boat together.

The sun broke through the clouds like a champion on that Saturday morning, and we were off into the waterways as they traded driving duties.

I discovered how cars cease to exist from the purview of the canals,

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and then the two introduced me to bitterballen, the traditional crunchy bar snack of Béchamel and diced meat crumbed and fried that arrive with mustard.

bitterballen in Amsterdam (these are served with mustard)

For dinner, we shelled purple hulls for the green peas to stir into scallion sauce on soba noodles under roasted chicken thighs marinated in soy sauce and watched the night lights luminate the canal bridge tunnels.

Kevin arrived a few days later, and we took the train to Cologne, stepping off the platform, through the station, and out into the sun, blinking at the beautiful cathedral.

Cologne (koln) Cathedral

The controversial stained glass inside by Gerhard Richter is startling in real life, as you stand and look up beside octogenarians who have pushed their glasses on top of their heads. You realize you are seeing the same thing they are.

the controversial window from Gerhard Richter at Cologne (Koln) Cathedral

After a proper night of pork plates and Kölsch served in the correct glassware, I went wandering through the rain the following morning, pausing at the women practicing aerial swordfighting on a wall (likely this is an exercise craze that will import to Brooklyn nicely),

practicing choreographed fighting on a wall in Cologne, Germany

and strolled the nearby bridge to read the sets of initials on love locks, fastened onto the gate by couples who then throw away the key together in the Rhine below.

locks on the gate in Cologne, Germany

purple heart lock on gate

Back in Amsterdam, we sought out herring (also broodje haring, which is the name for a herring sandwich and always on good brown bread), for the annual celebration of Hollandse Nieuwe. The Dutch favor picking it up by the tail and serve it with raw onions and pickles.

herring in Amsterdam (Hollandse Nieuwe)

My favorite Dutch food is Boterkoek, a type of shortbread, and Kuyt Patisserie makes a perfect version. If you’ve ever made a cake-cookie, this is a shortbread cake-cookie with a chewy center and crispy edges. (I’m working on a recipe for the next Saucy mag issue.)

Boterkoek (Dutch shortbread) from Kuyt patisserie is really special

While front rooms from the 1700s look out over the canals, as Matt and Maia’s stunning apartment does (they were kind enough to let us stay as they traveled for work), rooms on the other side of buildings look out on private gardens,

the garden view from our room in Amsterdam

and Kevin and I talked about the difference of views as we walked to local “brown cafes” that were appropriately “cozy” – the highest accolade in this city culture.

We were also upsold potatoes at restaurants with our friend Matt, and we marvelled at our friend Gary’s colorful rooms when we were invited over for a beautiful long dinner (and I’m cooking in his enormous kitchen next time we visit).

After a week or so in Amsterdam, we hopped a train to Brussels and took the chunnel to London, and I spent so much time riding around on the top of double-decker buses while exploring and then posing as an East Londoner (modeling my behavior after my good friend James, who lives in Stoke Newington and was a perfect host), that I rarely took pictures other than with my phone.

I will admit to a new and abiding fondness for eggs, sausage, chips, and beans at breakfast and that I continued to order black pudding everywhere we went. (More on my favorite food in London in the next Saucy.)

A few days into our London stay, I took a local train to the country to visit my friend Will, who had secured a manor house from the thirteenth century in Somerset for the weekend.

view from the dining room windows as the sun set

Will has a habit of gathering friends to country houses all over the world, so I wasn’t too surprised to be soon drinking Rosé and walking the grounds as Rachel helped him collect wood for the inspiring fireplaces.

Will and Rachel go collect wood

After exploring the manor (I chose one of the secret rooms), we tucked into a lovely dinner planned and prepared by Sherrilynn and Matt in the substantial restored kitchen.

Gurney Manor

Two roosters battled for dominance outside my window in the morning while everyone slept in, and I crept out to the garden gate,

gate out of the garden

by the water

afternoon clouds in the creek

finding a machine in the garden,

machine in the garden

before returning to the manor lawn to find Sherrilynn under a tree, as joyful as I always am to see the leaves filter morning light.

light through the leaves

We all pitched in to make a “slap-up” breakfast (another new adjective!) of eggs with crème fraiche, beans, streakey bacon, leek sausage, and crumpet with clotted cream and strawberry jam to ease into the day.

slap-up breakfast (eggs with creme fraiche, Heinz beans, streakey bacon, leek sausage, crumpet with clotted cream and strawberry jam

After baths (more of those than showers in the manor), we split into expedition parties and set our sights on the Walled Gardens of nearby Cannington, where the nuns and monks are rumored to have met in underground tunnels in centuries past,

walled gardens of Cannington

gardens in town

walled gardens of Cannington in Bridgwater

walled gardens of Cannington

and the gardens now are curated by those who delight in strange succulent varieties.

succulent at walled gardens of Cannington

succulents

walled gardens of Cannington

walled gardens of Cannington

exploring

Driving further into town, we were underwhelmed by Scrumpy at a nearby cidery, but we nonetheless took full advantage of their local dairy specialty, as you can tell from Will staring longingly at not the scone,

Will looking at the scones

but the generous ramekin of clotted cream that the area is known for.

it's very much about the clotted cream

Back at the manor, we greeted the sheep,

sheep at Gurney Manor

Gurney Manor

and I followed Sherrilynn down the little path toward town (you can see Darrell on the returning end of his run),

walking into town with Sherrilynn

to go past the pubs to the medieval church and its gargoyles,

church in Bridgwater

finding the way back past the blackberry brambles and honeysuckle vines.

honeysuckle and blackberries in Bridgwater

Rachel was smiling as Matt and Sherrilynn started dinner,

prepping for dinner

to the accompaniment of a delightful musical group that had produced an entire album of songs about cider.

amazing album we bought at Rick's Cider

Will worked his pie crust into the pan to bake it blind,

Will hard at work on his beautiful pie crust

and I left the kitchen to join Will and Darrell in the garden,

dinner prep

setting up the table in the setting sun.

aligning the table

Sherrilynn and Matt

Sauteed mushrooms over chevre on bread with a port sauce paired very well with the company and the conversation (with Darrell sneaking raspberries into your wine at opportune intervals),

beautiful bread with sauteed mushrooms over chevre that Matt made

we begin

punctuated by corks flying into the air and laughter.

the cork flies through the air

Later, the talented Sherrilynn and Matt would pull their banjos out and fill the old house with music and song, and I would relax deeper into a couch beside a fire that roared, feeling lucky indeed to have such good friends with such good friends that remain dear no matter where we live as the summers come and go…

baked the shell blind, let it cool in the sill

and mike made wild blueberry pancakes

wild blueberry pancakes

On Sunday morning, a few Sundays ago, Keryn and Mike were the perfects hosts, indulging us with Mike’s wonderful pancakes and letting us sleep very late (that’s Kate’s butter, of course).

Note: This is the third in a series of three posts about Maine. You might start with the first or second post.

Keryn likes her pancakes with blueberries throughout and on top (and with these native wild blueberries, I heartily agree with her preference),

this is how Keryn likes her pancakes: with blueberries inside, and plenty of wild blueberries on top

and Fil and I smiled at all the fun of the day before.

with Fil, on Keryn and Mike's new entryway bench

Late that afternoon, Keryn arranged the perfect spread of charcuterie and cheese, and a little while later, we were off to the ever-crowded Primo for their oyster night.

late afternoon spread (perfect thing for a Sunday night)

On Monday, I went foraging with my friend Evan on an island, gathering berries,

butterfly

Maine island

foraging in Maine

happening upon chanterelles,

chanterelles in Maine

and some of the rose hips that grow all over the area.

rose hips

Monday night, Keryn (who even manages to rock rain boots) drove us to Ladleah and Shane’s,

Ladleah and Keryn with good things from Ladleah's garden

where Ladleah’s gardening skills were in abundant evidence.

garlic and squash from Ladleah's garden

Ladleah had made a lovely blueberry buckle for the next morning’s sailing outing,

buckle for the trip

in a spare moment after making her famous salsa,

Ladleah's famous salsa and pickles

and then she showed us her gardens (Ladleah gardens for others as well, so these are her personal gardens that she works on in her free time).

Ladleah and her gardens

Ladleah's garden

I haven’t seen tomatillos on the vine before,

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and Ladleah introduced us to an heirloom cucumber she adores.

heirloom cucumber

We glimpsed the dramatic hanging purple beans,

purple beans in Ladleah's garden

and the first apples on the tree in the future orchard.

first apples on the apple tree

Before we left for dinner, we all smelled the mint on her porch, a scent I now associate with Maine, and its crisp air, and the beautiful people I am lucky to know there.

herbs (mint) around Ladleah's house

On our way back to Brooklyn on Tuesday, Fil and I drove through the Berkshires to visit Ethan and Rachel and meet Drew (Ethan drew us a map for the way back and recommended his favorite series of highways).

Ethan, Rachel, Drew, Fil (Ethan is drawing us a map to drive to Bklyn)

In their unique and incredible house, we marveled at the view that goes on and on, appropriate for a couple that is wise and witty in equal measure (and one I am excited to return to visit for longer).

the incredible view from Ethan and Rachel's porch

Just as Ethan had said, we passed sculptures too intriguing not to stop for,

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the Circle Museum

and we made a note that more exploration is necessary of this place,

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and perhaps also of the miniature golf at the Red Rooster Drive-In next time the drive includes these roads…

the Red Rooster Drive-In

the returning roads to brooklyn

warm housemade doughnuts at the Tabard Inn brunch

Of all the Washington, D.C. places to brunch, Tabard Inn excels at being that perfect place of quiet with green vines climbing the brick patio walls, tables nicely spaced, and warm, homemade doughnuts as the (expected) immediate order that arrive with whipped cream and berries.

(Note: This is the last of eight posts from this road trip. You might start at the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, or seventh post.)

Karen ordered French toast as we sat in the garden (a good way to end the pancake quest),

beautiful French toast at the Tabard Inn brunch

and I had the Eggs Benedict with housemade Tasso ham (harder to find in Brooklyn) as we recalled all our favorite moments of the week on the road.

eggs Benedict with housemade Tasso ham at Tabard Inn

We then set out for the Dupont Circle farmers’ market, watching the usual stranger interactions along the way (intersections are awkward in this place),

oh, D.C.

and crossed the circle to the busy vendors selling peaches and goat cheese.

farmers' market in Dupont Circle

At a great loss to Miami, my wonderful friend Holly (at right) now lives in the area, and she guided us to her favorite sellers and their finest varieties, bubbling over with her infectious zeal for local food.

Karen and Holly at the Dupont Circle Farmers' Market

And, just a few hours later, we arrived back in Brooklyn.

I stood with Karen (after she helped me unpack the car) and we smiled at the thousands of miles we had driven together, at the gifts of the road, and stories we’ll tell of our adventures,

especially as only Karen’s suitcases are in focus in this image, ready for the next time the road calls and we answer…

Karen, the Road Warrior

community stones and chickens

interior of the magic cabin

A few months ago, I moved to a little cabin in Santa Cruz to spend the summer on a personal sabbatical (more in my original May post), and July 31st, I left the redwoods and my Stellar Jay friends to return to Brooklyn.

Above is what the inside of the cabin looked like every morning as I peeked out of the sleeping loft around five and climbed down the wooden ladder to begin the day.

On my last afternoon in Santa Cruz, Margaret (who has become one of my closest friends) raved about a community stone event happening in a nearby neighborhood, and walking through the backyard gate, I smiled as the stone artisan related the blissful attributes of bright orange stone Margaret chose.

Margaret learning about her blissful orange stone

Trays of beads were organized by color (Santa Cruz is a town of rainbows),

all the colors of the rainbow

and Kevin listened as the energy of the pink stone he drew out of the “magic stone bag” was explained.

Kevin learns about what his pink stone means

Margaret’s children were running about with joy as usual, and Zsa Zsa had chosen blue as her color of the day—her nails and stone necklace match, of course.

Zsa Zsa (the lady in blue)

From blue—or maybe Zsa Zsa was really an indigo girl—the color aqua appeared in the form of a fresh egg, to the general excitement of those around the chicken run.

one of the chickens laid a blue egg while we were there (how's that for a party trick?)

Kevin was perhaps channeling the dark pink stone energy when he cradled a chicken in his arms and had a moment. (I left him to commune with the chicken. These things happen in this town.)

Kevin bonds with the chicken

Shortly after I said goodbye to Margaret’s family and a really lovely few months, Kevin and I went to watch aspiring surfers laze in the calm afternoon water as we napped in the sun and then drove to San Jose, where I began the drive to Brooklyn the following morning.

watching the surfers in Santa Cruz

Thank you, thank you Santa Cruz for a summer I’ll remember, and one that is helping shape the path ahead…