in hot pursuit of mud bugs

Biscuit with blackberry jam at the Loveless Cafe in Nashville

This story begins with biscuits and blackberry jam, and then eggs and bacon and sausage and hash brown casserole,

eggs, bacon, gravy, sausage, and hash brown casserole at the Loveless Cafe in Nashville, Tennessee

all at the Loveless Cafe, which I cannot recommend unless you are with a friend so wonderful it almost doesn’t matter where you go on a food road trip.

Loveless Cafe sign in Nashville, Tennesee

In the drizzling rain, I drove from seeing old friends Michaela, Stewart, and Michael who live in Nashville to Jackson, Mississippi, where I picked my friend Laura up from the train station, and we drove off the mapped roads onto a gravel one,

the gravel road driveway

that led us to dogs, and an annual family reunion that we secured an invite to, showing up just in time for fiery conch salad from the Bahamas (the most wonderful people from the Bahamas bring it to the event every year), and a little later, a pig that had been roasting for 48 hours.

Dogs to greet us at the Crawfish Boil

For this occasion, many of the extended family sleep in little tent rows dotting the back yard of the five-acre propery,

row of tents

lined with magnolias and near a grove of two hundred acres of uncut forest.

magnolia

The next morning began my first Crawfish Boil, and a stunning sequence of food throughout the day started with biscuits and savory country ham that is colloquially spread with jam.

day begins with biscuits and ham and sausage (the ham is never sweet)

Out back, everyone was looking into three kiddie pools,

Checking on the crawfish

where 335 pounds of crawfish were doing the wave as they danced and were watered into the afternoon.

spraying the crawfish

Our friend Yann’s dad Alan wielded the Cajun Crawfish Paddle with skill, letting the initial boil brew simmer and reduce,

adding salt to one, the Cajun Crawfish Paddle in the other pot

as the guys shucked ears of corn ready for the enormous pots.

shucking corn for the pots

shucked corn

There was time for playful crawfish racing,

FEAR ME

to admire Laura’s new battle scar from an old bike injury surgery,

Laura showing off a battle wound (not from the crawfish)

and in a flush of excitement, everyone followed the first batch of crawfish onto the table earlier than usual,

Pouring the first batch on the table

where they were covered with newspaper and allowed to steam and rest briefly.

all covered with newspaper (to rest)

Yann’s brother Ky taught me the correct technique for eating them: loosen the tail, pull it off, push the meat up, dip it in Tony’s (saltier) or Old Bay (less salty) and then – “Don’t cheat,” he admonished – crush and suck the head juices.

crawfish boil (marking your cup with an X)

It is incredible experience, as everyone is drawn to the table, eating their fill and laughing and wandering away, only to return for a later batch.

around the table

Pictures were taken on all kinds of cameras,

crawfish boil

and bubbles filled the long driveway,

bubbles

stories were told around the fire,

around the fire

and our friend Yann was one of the last at the table, as the Captain of Team Peel (completely peeling the remainder of the crawfish to bag and use later as opposed to my team of tail poppers, also known as Team Progress).

Thanks, Yann, for letting me be an honorary member of your amazing extended family. And thanks to Laura for getting me into yet another adventure.

Yann (Captain of Team Peel)

The music started as the crawfish were sealed into containers and continued into the night, with spoons and drums,

and an accomplished singer-songwriter serenading everyone crowded into the kitchen in a moment too perfect to record.

I realize it was my first, but damn, are Yann’s parents Sandi and Alan ever the lovely hosts, and my, but is a boil a perfect way to bring family together to stand beside each other at a table…

More photos from the crawfish boil will appear in the summer issue of Saucy Mag, my new food magazine. Find the spring issue here.

magic squares

beautiful, colorful Barcelona

I have spent the spring impatiently waiting for warm weather in New York, hopping a flight in late March to wander sunny Barcelona streets,

park in Barcelona

and its long stretches of parks, and the elaborately encrusted Sagrada Familia,

Sagrada Familia

with its Gaudí figures and ornamentation,

Sagrada Familia

including a Magic Square on the outside of the unfinished basílica.

a magic square at Sagrada Familia

The inspiring inside is filled with light from the stained glass playing off itself and the organic columns, and ushers in a curious sort of local and tourist reverence.

Sagrada Familia

In nearby neighborhoods, there are plazas also filled with light and the sounds of guitarists practicing before standing just outside restaurant patios,

quiet courtyard

and in April, chocolate shops filled with Easter houses (characters sold separately).

characters sold separately

Visiting for a few days, I started a wonderful habit of Cava and Jamón ibérico from the nearby La Boqueria on our roof deck, reading into the late afternoon before meeting friends for very fresh fish and crispy Pan can Tomate.

cava and jamon iberico on the porch in barcelona

From Barcelona, we went to Cannes, where I discovered Margalet, a cheese much like Camembert, at the fabulous Ceneri – the sort of cheese shop you feel you cannot make a mistake in, the selection is curated so thoughtfully.

Margalet (like Camembert)

A perfectly ripened cheese makes for such quiet happiness.

While in Cannes, we were part of a small but determined expedition to the famed Colombe D’Or, the restaurant with early art from those later collected by museums. The trip there and back was just as entertaining (hairpin turns!) as the witty conversation at the table, and we were the last to leave the dining room and walk back through the picturesque town.

somewhere in the town by Colombe D'Or

And a few weeks ago, back stateside, we celebrated a family birthday on the charming boyfriend’s side in New Orleans, that city where the trees grow beads in season,

the trees grow beads in the Garden District

and where it is possible to source a glittery birthday cake on short notice.

Glittery birthday cake for Rod in New Orleans (thanks, Sucre!)

Near our hotel in the Warehouse District, I walked to Cochon for an Abita and a glance at the menu, watching as the heat melted the butter for the rolls,

biscuits and butter and Abita at Cochon

and unable to resist, I ordered their Cochon de Lait that arrived on top of braised cabbage and with a cracklin’, a good omen for a snappy city I try to wander through on my travels as often as possible…

cracklin on top of cochon and braised cabbage at Cochon

More pictures and stories from these trips in the next issue out this summer of a food magazine I’ve started called Saucy. You can buy the first issue (it used to be called Culinaesthete) on Magcloud in print or digital formats. Your support of the magazine so far (hello, new Australian friends!) means the world to me.

the art of gournet cooking

I know what you’re thinking.

["She misspelled the title of this post. Should I tell her?"]

best for gournet cooking effect

I meant to put ‘gournet’ in the title–and not because this post concerns the fish of the family Triglidae (though there are fish. Shiny ones.)

A few weeks ago, my friend Dan and I galloped off to Chinatown to see his noodle dealer. I can’t show you the noodle dealer, of course, but perhaps you can ferret out the location with the background clues.

Dan with many noodles

We bought five packets of beautiful, fresh noodles.

five packs of noodles from Dan's noodle dealer

Then, a new vegetable enthusiast friend (who sets up shop on the street) gleefully packed mounds of long Chinese greens and baby bok choy for us in lucky red bags, throwing in extra handfuls for good measure–so many that the bags weighed us down as we made our way toward the fish.

baby bok choy (an abundance of them)

I like shiny things. So unsurprisingly, the fish that caught my eye were pink and shimmery.

our beautiful sparkly pink fish

Scaled and gutted, the pink fish still sparkled in my kitchen a few hours later;

scaled and gutted, our fish are ready to be crusted with salt

while Dan stirred his wonderful black bean sauce into the noodles, and we sautéed the greens, I whipped egg whites and salt to create a crust that baked around the fish.

salt-crusted fish (you flake it off)

By then, our guests had started to arrive: Dan’s sister, who lives in the neighborhood, and then my friends LJ, Sarah, Tricia, David (who lives in Mexico City), Mario, Revaz, and Dean.

such a nice group in the apt (and the party grew)

Dan, who is a gluten-free chef, made sizzling parsnip cakes with Chinese sausage as everyone shed coats and boots, and we began to celebrate The Year of the Rabbit together.

Looking at our birth years on the Chinese calendar, we read the Engrish predictions for our year ahead as I portioned out pieces of the whole fish.

In years past, my favorite part of Chinese New Year parties has been making fortune cookies with my friend Mica, but this year I decided to finally make tea eggs.

tea eggs

Boiled hard, the eggshells are cracked and the eggs simmered with 5-spice powder and tea bags, then cure for up to a few days, chilled.

Just after the eggs were Dan’s lovely individual chocolate cakes (recipe), Tricia’s pistachio macarons from Michael Allen, and raucous revelry, but before that, the kitchen went silent for a few minutes, as we unpeeled the marbled eggs and considered the possibilities in the months ahead…

tea egg unpeeled

how Dr. Claw and Hipster Ariel are related

I rarely do this here on kthread.com, but I am using this blog post to pull together the materials from a Social Media Week New York panel this afternoon called “Forget Fans, Get Partners” held at BBH New York. I wasn’t able to talk about all of the slides, but leave me comments and I will be so, so happy to explain more about what I find interesting and important in each.

Thank you to Saneel for inviting me (and to Kevin for connecting us), Shaun for moderating and working through panel structure and questions, and my co-panelist Peter of LEGO. I’m glad to now know about the AFOL community. Nice crowd of people with smart questions in attendance and thank you for those of you who cheered me on from the Internet.

The uncut video (it is an hour and lots of change long, I appear in the beginning half and then at the final forty minutes of Q & A) is below, and the slides below that.

Thoughts? I’d really like to hear from you.

kthread spins: feather in february

Only six more weeks of winter, our groundhog friends indicate. Bookended with my favorite garage band, these are songs about the elements and—with the ice, we are gazing at our shoes. Those tracks are here too, some with animal band names. Wishful playlist below; more podcasts in the kthread spins section.

white on the side of the road near Camden

“Do You See My Love” – The Dirtbombs

“Fast as a Feather” – It is rain in my face

“Fire to the Ground” (feat. Matt Berninger) – The Forms

“Lemonland” – Sleep Good

“Undercover Martyn Flexin’ It” (Passion Pit remix) – Two Door Cinema Club

“summersun” – galapagoose

“Bite Yr Tongue” – Big Troubles

“Killin The Vibe” – Ducktails

“We All Live Forever” – Paperwolf

“Tell ‘Em” (Diplo remix) – Sleigh Bells

“Bug in the Bassbin” (Kyle Hall remix) – The Dirtbombs

“Hobbies” (feat. Mutual Benefit) – kohwi

“You Will” – Lia Ices